Price
$315.00
Material
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A tote bag, cut from a single panel of material, folded into form and collected by four strips of laser-cut ultrasuede. The bag has no sewn structure and forms around its contents. A floating pocket is added to create separation for smaller priority items. It easily folds flat when empty.
Research
The unique construction of this product was the result of identifying several specific innovations in tote bag history.
Utility
The bag, in its most elemental form, is a flat piece of material given volume by where it is gathered and held. The earliest examples — animal skin, woven fiber, cloth — were not constructed so much as arranged: folded at the edges, secured with cord or tied at the corners (Fig.1). No additional components, no internal structure. As commerce and travel expanded through the 18th and 19th centuries, bag construction became more formalized, adding gussets for depth, reinforced bottoms for load, rigid panels for shape. The newsboy bag of the late 19th and early 20th centuries was a counterpoint to that tendency — a simple canvas satchel slung over the shoulder, designed to hold newspapers, coins, and little else (Fig.2). Its utility came from the absence of anything unnecessary. Each addition to bag construction solved a problem and introduced a new one. The flat panel, folded, remains the origin of every bag made.
Silhouette
The bag has no fixed shape. Because its structure is determined only by a folded panel and four strips of ultrasuede, the silhouette is subject to what is carried and the effect of gravity on the fabric. Contents and load distribution alter the form each time. There is no engineered shape the bag returns to. A parallel tradition in Japan — the furoshiki (Fig.3), a single square of cloth used since the 8th century to wrap and carry goods of any size — operates on the same principle. Before it was associated with public baths, furoshiki was called hirazutsumi: flat folded bundle. In origami, volume and structure emerge entirely from how a flat sheet is folded and where. No material is added or removed.
Sport
The earliest tennis bags, appearing in the late 19th century as lawn tennis became a structured sport, were made from canvas or leather and designed to carry one or two racquets. Over the following century they expanded into rigid, compartmentalized structures built around the demands of professional play. For the recreational player the load is lighter — a racket, a towel, a change of clothes — and the open tote has always answered that need without the architecture of a bag designed for the tour.
Design
Our bag prioritizes laying flat against the body and responding to the items in it. A single fabric panel is folded, and four ultrasuede strips placed at specific points determine its form. The logic is the same as origami: no material is added or removed, and the structure is entirely a product of where and how the flat sheet is folded (Fig.4). Where the strips gather the fabric, four distinct pleats form. Two shorter strips run along the top edges of the opening; the top of the floating pocket is set into the seam of one. Two longer strips follow the angled sides of the folded panel, attached to each other where the body fabric is, and separate above it, forming two distinct loops at the top. The floating pocket is caught in the seam of one shorter strip, sitting against the interior face of the bag. Snaps on both sides of the opening close the bag. It folds flat when empty.
Material
Our garments are engineered to support the activity and the wearer. We prioritize selecting natural fibers for contact with the skin whenever feasible. Both fabrics are milled in Japan. The first option is a high-density recycled nylon oxford with a water-repellent finish, with a crinkled surface that becomes more supple with use. The second is a heavier cotton Cordura blend with a mini ripstop grid, sun-dried and washed for a broken-in hand straight off the bolt. The ultrasuede strips are cut to match the body fabric and finished by laser, sealing the edge without hemming. Though it has the hand of suede, ultrasuede is stronger and more resistant to abrasion than the material it resembles.